There are greater than 150 tripoints on the planet however just one worldwide quadripoint, and right here we have been, perched precariously, within the high of a 2,000 12 months previous baobab tree, looking over the one place on the planet the place 4 nations meet and two nice African rivers be part of. We have been on Impalila Island, on the banks of the Chobe River, on the jap tip of the Caprivi Strip, a small slither of land that belongs to Namibia. From our vantage level on the high of the tree, we might see Zimbabwe, Zambia, Botswana and Namibia, in addition to the confluence of the Chobe and Zambezi Rivers.
If I believed climbing up had been a little bit of a hair elevating expertise, getting down from the tree had my knees wobbling like jelly, and it was solely by virtually falling, relatively ungracefully, onto our information’s shoulder, as he stood ready patiently on the base of the tree, that I lastly managed to get again onto terra firma! I fairly envied my husband, who being a bit liable to vertigo, had stayed on strong floor, watching as our youngsters had scampered up like seasoned mountaineers and I’d laboriously heaved myself up the metallic rungs, positioned just a bit bit too far aside for my legs to stretch between comfortably.
Impalila Island, flanked to the north by the Zambezi River and to the south by the gushing rapids of the Chobe River, is residence to round 2,500 individuals, in 25 small villages. It was additionally residence to my household, for a few magical days.
Ft firmly on the bottom, we headed again to Ichingo Chobe River Lodge. ‘Ichingo’ means spearhead, the title coming from the triangular form of Impalila Island. Discovered on the south facet of the island, the lodge is a birding and fishing paradise, so effectively camouflaged by the riverine forest that you simply wouldn’t even realize it was there, if not for the motor boats tethered neatly on the financial institution beneath. The realm across the lodge is an unimaginable maze of waterways, floodplains and bush. Over 450 species of birds have been recorded right here, together with some rarer species just like the Pels Fishing Owl, rock pratincole, African skimmers, and Pygmy geese. The tiny reed islands reverse the lodge have been densely populated by weaver chicken’s nests and their fixed chatter and exercise continued at any time when there was daylight.
Nestled underneath large Jackalberry timber was our ‘tent’, and I exploit the time period advisedly, as we had correct beds, tables, chairs, an ensuite rest room and even air-conditioning. From our non-public deck we had pretty views of the river, and at night time we went to sleep with the sound of the dashing water ringing in our goals.
My household appear to be of the overall opinion that no journey to a river is full with out making an attempt your hand at fishing. Not one to face of their approach, however not sharing their ideas on fishing, I fortunately waved them off with their rods, and loads of refreshments, to strive their luck. Every tent has its personal assigned tender boat and private information, and with entry to over 100km of prime fishing waters I used to be certain they wouldn’t come again empty handed. I relaxed by the pool, with my e book, to await their return.
A number of hours later they have been again. The waters across the lodge are residence to the wanted, ferocious tiger fish, in addition to tilapia, African Pike and Zambezi Yellowfish. Regardless of this, my husband and sons between them, had solely managed to hook a solitary tiger, which had apparently managed to leap off the road, taking the lodge’s coverage of ‘catch and launch’ a bit too actually! They returned to the lodge with all the same old fisherman’s excuses about the way it was the “flawed time of day”, or the “flawed time of 12 months”, or flawed time of “one thing or different”… I personally assume it was an excessive amount of speaking, and possibly too many beers!
Leaving Ichingo and travelling just a few kilometers upstream on the Chobe River we ‘upsized’ our boat expertise, and exchanged our glossy fishing motorboats for a 45m lengthy luxurious houseboat, the Zambezi Queen.
A ‘boat safari’, on a floating boutique lodge, is a wholly completely different expertise from a standard land-based safari. It is a luxurious vessel, with three flooring and solely fourteen cabins, so not more than 28 passengers at a time. Traditional class with trendy comforts, a 5 star expertise in a wild atmosphere. Navigating roughly 25km of the Chobe River, the Zambezi Queen lets you discover the river and the land from a special vantage level. Watching the panorama consistently unfolding and altering earlier than your eyes.
There’s something very particular about drifting alongside a river with wildlife at eye degree and virtually inside arm’s attain. Consuming herds of elephants, temperamental trying buffaloes, yawning pods of hippos and solitary, stealthy crocodiles that basked on sandbanks within the morning solar. Staying on board the Zambezi Queen is like being on a everlasting sport drive, however with a a lot greater consolation issue. It is a implausible solution to see wildlife from a totally completely different angle. The boat cruises slowly down the river, the Caprivi Strip on one facet and Chobe Nationwide Park on the opposite, permitting you loads of time to take in the surroundings.
The primary night, moored in Namibian waters because the solar went down, we sat again, glass of wine in hand. Admiring the surroundings and the dramatic colors of the sky and watching because the glowing orange solar slipped beneath the horizon. From the highest deck, a big open house that homes the bar, lounge and eating space, large home windows opened onto uninterrupted views of the river, as twilight coated the land past.
The smooth lapping of water, the muffled grunts of hippos and the chirping of swallows nesting within the eves simply outdoors my window, woke me the following morning. Opening the curtains, earlier than returning to the consolation of an expensive mattress, we watched the Chobe River waking up earlier than our eyes. A few hippos bobbed up and down within the water. A small herd of buffalo stared balefully and instantly at us. Swaying grass on the financial institution revealed glimpses of camouflaged impala. The fantastic thing about the scene left us speechless.
The male members of my household opted for a pre-breakfast journey to strive their hand at fishing once more. I selected a extra sedate bird-watching journey. Gallinules, rails, crakes, herons and extra flew amongst the floating reed mattress islets. Dozens of smaller birds flitted via the undergrowth, their brilliant iridescent colors flashing towards the foliage. Jacanas strode throughout rafts of waterlily leaves, every leaf the dimensions of a dinner plate. The sluggish drift of our tender boat meant we didn’t disturb the peace and we might get proper up near the birdlife.
After breakfast again on the boat we relaxed the morning away, a pair of binoculars shut at hand, to take a more in-depth take a look at something that drew our consideration as we drifted previous.
Leaving the ‘mom ship’ that afternoon, once more by tender boat, we went out to get even nearer to the wildlife. The darkish blue color of the river contrasted with the greens and browns of the financial institution. Birds swooped previous us. Baboon households got here all the way down to the water’s edge to drink beside herds of impala and puku. We drifted previous elephants, trunks within the water like large straws, who paused mid ‘sip’ to observe our progress. Kingfishers hovered and plunged within the river, trying to find fish. There was one thing mesmerising in regards to the river that afternoon.
One other non-obligatory exercise from the Zambezi Queen is to journey by tender boat to a neighborhood village on the floodplains of Namibia’s’ Caprivi Strip, the place you meet the villagers and elders of the Subiya tribe and learn the way the inhabitants of this 100-year previous village dwell, and a few of their traditions. You should buy woven baskets, some jewelry, or maybe a carved wood animal, to take residence as a memento of your vacation. If you wish to, there’s additionally a possibility to offer the youngsters helpful items like college stationery, books, and so on. To complete off your go to, you possibly can watch (and even take part) a show of conventional dancing and singing.
Our last dinner on board. Glasses and cutlery glistened within the heat glow of the eating cabin. This was an African-themed dinner with a wide range of conventional dishes. Waiters saved glasses full. A number of journeys have been made by my numerous relations, backwards and forwards to replenish their plates from the quite a few desert choices. The whole Zambezi Queen forged and crew sang a number of songs to farewell us earlier than our early morning departure the next day.
A memorable journey, an exquisite solution to expertise this stretch of the Chobe River. Our journey jogged my memory of Kenneth Grahame’s line in The Wind within the Willows… “Imagine me, my younger buddy, there’s nothing – completely nothing – half a lot price doing as merely messing about in boats”.
Getting there
The Zambezi Queen is ideally situated for these wanting to go to the well-known Victoria Falls or Chobe Nationwide Park.
The Zambezi Queen is accessed by flying into Kasane Worldwide Airport, from the place it’s a 20 minute street switch to the Botswana Immigration Put up after which boat journey of round quarter-hour, through Namibian Immigration on the opposite facet of the river, to the Zambezi Queen. A street switch from Livingstone and Victoria Falls is a journey of two to a few hours.
When to go
The Zambezi Queen sails on scheduled weekly departures each Monday (two-nights or four-nights), Wednesday (two-nights) and Friday (three-nights).
Sport viewing on the Chobe River is at its greatest from March to November when the climate is drier and the animals are extra cell as they seek for meals and water. Summer season and spring additionally supply distinctive alternatives although, as you watch the panorama burst into life after the primary rains of the season
Birding season begins in September, when the primary migrants arrive, boosting the chicken inhabitants generally by 20% in comparison with the winter months. From December via to March birdlife on the Chobe is extraordinarily busy and the colorful breeding plumage on show is a rare sight.
Fishing safaris may be performed all 12 months spherical, a superb time is from the annual floods beginning in March to the feeding frenzies within the winter months.
Eco credentials
A number of environmentally pleasant requirements have been set on the Zambezi Queen. They run the most recent, most gasoline environment friendly and lowest emission mills throughout the day. After 22h00, your complete boat switches over to the battery energy via the night time. Scorching water is offered by a photo voltaic heating system on-board the vessel and energy-saving lights are put in via the vessel. All cleansing detergents and facilities on the houseboats are biodegradable, they usually use an eight-stage river water purification plant for water in showers, faucets and the pool. A water jet propulsion system replaces the standard propeller system inflicting no injury to the riverbed and/or fauna and flora.
